Burberry Resort Collection 2023 | vogue

It’s safe to say that Britain – a country as of this week without a prime minister in office – feels torn by disputes over its identity and place in the world. At this delicate moment in history, Burberry, under Italian creative director Riccardo Tisci, is a British institution that continues to believe in focusing on borderless, non-nationalist viewpoints. Tisci’s policy of turning his pre-collections into insights into Burberry’s Britishness from his international network of ‘friends and family’ is proof of this.

This season, he turned to his American friend, artist Jared Buckhiester, to collaborate. According to digitally winged notes from Burberry headquarters, the two are on board with looking at the brand’s signatures through the prism of British rave culture – the lasting impression of the late ’90s that Tisci has kept close to his heart since he studied at Central Saint Martins over 20 years ago.

Except no one has ever turned up to illegal warehouse raves in Kings Cross or one night parties in the muddy fields of England looking like the people in the lookbook. Remnants of that rave past seemed to have been cleaned up and incorporated, perhaps, into hybrid military bombers and tailored coats in the form of the classic Burberry trench coat fused with a biker jacket.

But in reality, the Tisci/Buckhiester vision is a much more refined and luxurious take on what the notes called “workwear,” complete with glamorous black leather and contemporary touches of gender nonconformity. As part of this, there are long tailored column skirts – or perhaps maxi aprons – which seemed to be earmarked for the men’s side of the collection. (These are carryovers from the last pre-collection, so holding them should indicate commercial traction.)

The place that needs to be circled at Burberry is the same one that faces Britain’s divided Conservative Party – to try to cement loyalty, it needs to have something that appeals to everyone. There are Burberry customers with conservative tastes in small c, or, in other words, people who are looking for simple classic clothes without any overt branding. Tisci hasn’t forgotten to create for them this season. Along with Burberry plaid jeans, boyish maxis and some of Tisci’s hyper-sexy slit skirts and curve dresses, there were times when clean, sharp cuts, particularly two black tuxedo jackets, stood out.

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